Viking knit wire wrapped cabochon

hello there everyone today I want to show you how you can capture a commission using the Viking weird technique so it can look something like this so I'm just using a nice amazonite Commission here in a two drop shape you get this nice effect all the way around there's quite a similar technique to just netting a cabochons but you just get this different result because we're just attaching our loops in a slightly different way so if you want to learn how to make this then keep watching these are the materials that we need to use now in this case I'm working with two different gauges a regular round wire and it's just a copper wire the first one here is a 1 mil in thickness and that's going to be the base wire and the structure is going to hold the piece in place the second one here is a point 4 mil so that's going to be the weaving wire that we're going to make our loops and Viking it with and then the last thing you'll need is of course your cabochons so in my case I'm using this amazonite cabochon it's got a nice teardrop shape this specific one measures 4 and 1/2 centimeters by 3 centimeters but whether this technique will work for any shape and size of cabochons that you've got so let's get it all together and let's get started so then the length of wire that we'll need is first of all a link of a 1 mil wire and I'm working here with about 40 centimetres now it really depends on the stone that you're using I know this will be plenty for me and also be enough to then do the bail so this will probably work for most stones if you're working with a small one you can then make it shorter or if you know you get a really big thing then you can always make it longer so really just make sure you have enough wire to go around the stone and then make a bail and then also we'll need a length of a point for Miller wire and in this case I've cut off two and a half meters now that is quite a bit and sounds like a lot to work with but I'm not going to be working with this full make the whole time what I like to try and do is make the capturing of the Commission and then weaving the bail of the same length of wire if I can so I'm actually going to be able to do that with this that's why I've got such a long length but if you don't feel comfortable with that you can easily cut off a shorter length so maybe say a metre to a metre and a half handing on the size of your stone and just do the catching of the cabbage and separately and then do the bail afterwards that's completely up to you but this is what I'm working with so then the first thing we need to do is make a shape that the cabochons is going to sit on so I need to get my cabochons out here and then also my length of my 1 mil wire so that's what I'm going to be working with first and then we basically need to create the shape of the cabochons but just a slightly bit smaller than the actual cabbage in itself so what I quite often find helpful is firstly you go just work in the middle of your wire here so you got an end on both sides but I always find it quite helpful just use the cabochons itself as a template and then just shape my wire around it so a bit like this you can also just do it freehand or use tools to help get the shape that you need but this just helps get the basic shape I find so like this and then obviously it's going to spring open a bit but then I have a basic shape that I can work with and then I need to make it a bit smaller I also know it needs to fit the cabochons but just slightly smaller than the cabochons itself so I also I'm going to keep roughing them back to this I'm just going to reference on the back of my cabochons actually because that's why this is going to sit just inside of the outer edge so this is still a bit too large so just keep manipulating the shape till feel like it's going to fit a little bit more so you can just gently pull here it keeps the shape nice but you're specially making the shape a bit smaller so we're sort of getting on now this more look looks more like something but nice shape and it's just slightly smaller than the outside edge of the cabbage in itself so this is near enough what my shape and the way is going to be to fit the cabochons nicely so then once you have that and obviously it's the same for any shape Commission that you have just make it whatever shape that your commission is so oval you want to make an oval shape with your wire and so on and then what I want to do with this shape as well is right now my ends of my wire that it's just crossing over each other going outward I just want to fix that so I'm going to take my chain nose pliers and then I want to basically have them come the opposite we're the eyes or want to put abandon each wire going back on itself basically so right here the tip where the wires are crossing over I'm going to grab hold of one wire at a time to start with the back one and then I keep all of that and then bend my pliers here backwards so there's no too perfect you can always adjust this angle so it's coming back up and so now I feel like the other one is actually never want to go on the other side and do the same thing with the other wire in the same point so these two bends are going to lay nicely right next to each other bend it out towards the opposite direction and like I said the angle of these right now doesn't matter too much because we can always fix that but then this is going to be where the wires is sticking out now that's going to then actually be the beginning of the bail I'm going to use these tails to make the bail with but for now we have the basic shape in place what I then want to do now is though is just because you can see it's Springs open because there's nothing to fasten it so I just want to fasten this top up here before we then start making the actual we that's going to hold the cabochons so this is where we then need to get a point for Miller wire out I just want to actually just make these angles a little bit less harsh we're coming off a bit more nicely towards the top but still have that angle to them so I'm going to get my point formula right here and by the way as well while you're doing this always just keep referencing back to your stone and see if it still fits you can see my angles are right there at the top so that's fine but then from a point formula way if you're just working with a length that you just want to do for the capturing of the cabochons and then do the bail separately you can just do that one length and then start on one end of your point formula wire here but because I'm working with this long length to try and get the capturing and the bail in the same piece of wire I've actually gone up about one to one and a half meters of my wire here starting there so almost roughly in the middle of the length that I've cut off and that's where I want to then start is wrapping this together because going to have one length of my point four mill going one way and then one the other way so I'm just going to start doing this so just right here where those angles are I just want to do a very slight figure of eight weave to hold them together so I'm just going around one wire first twice right at that angle canal just use applies to make sure it's it's in the right place squeeze them together nicely then cross over to the other side because that's what we want to do make sure they sit and stay in place so it's not going to keep moving around while we'll keep working with it so just hold it to begin with and then come around the other side with that figure of eight weave and down through the middle again twice on that side you can just do this a couple of times just to make sure it holds its shape in place then across from one side wrap twice over to the side and wrap twice and I'm just going down through the middle here now don't be wrapping too far up as well though because this is going towards the bail and I'm not making that till I've done the whole cabochon first of all also we don't necessarily have the right shape in place so this way that I've been using to wrap with just around here the top that is now going this way out so this one I'm going to leave to then continue with the bail once I get there and that's just how I make sure that the whole piece is being made with one length of wire I'm just going to put that out of my way and then grab the other length here that's now pointing down towards our shape now is like I said if you don't feel comfortable with this you think this might get in your way you can easily just use one length for this and then one length sepal the afterwards for your bill that's completely up to you but then now what we need to do is start getting all the loops in place here so we can start capturing the cabochon so just got this way already it doesn't matter what side you start from it doesn't matter at all it's the same thing I just kind of for some you can prefer to start over on here on that side so I'm not coming up through the shape and we need to start making our first line of loops so to then make these loops what I'm going to do is get all the way to the end of my point formula wire here so the length that we're making the lips with and capturing around the coercion first we need to make some rustle that's before we bring in the cabochons because obviously there's nothing here to capture it just yet but to start making the loops what I'm going to do is take my end down through the shape again and then pull it not all the way through but most of it just do it gently so don't get any kinks as well in your wire so every time you see one that would forms over kept falling here this will turn into a kink make sure you catch that and then just undo it before you keep pulling so just something real a bit like this and then going to go back to my end and then what we need to do is I'm coming down through the shape out below my frame wire here and then I'm going to come around and go back through this big loop that we have in here now but making sure they will capture in this frame as well then pull it back all the way through so we have this big loop now we're capturing that frame wire you can see there and then this is really then up to you how you want to do this you can either just pull this loop down by hand and then do that the whole way so you kind of do them freehand we can also do the first row of loops that we're going to do if you want them a bit more guaranteed to be the same size and that you can always get a pair of pliers now this case this is just some six step bail making pliers you can use round nose pliers go to the same point every time it's completely up to you but then just choose say roughly what size loop you would want place your pliers onto your frame all the way up to the beginning part of your loop so like that and then you can base this that pulling your wire down and then you get your look pork nicely down but it's going to stop right around the plier there and then that way you have the purse perfect shape and size of loop you can see there and then you can just keep doing that using that you make sure all of these loops in the first row are going to be the exact same size so like I said choose what size you want and then just pull your wire down around your pliers so that's a nice way to make sure you get them nice and even so there we go that's the first one nicely in place and you also make sure that you loop in your weaving wire back through the loop of itself because that's how we make sure these loops gets get nice and secure and I'm going to hold it in place so we need to continue now oops keep using the same length of wire so now we need to come back down through the shape again pull almost all your way through till you have this big loop at the top then take your end coming underneath up through the shape and then back around to make sure you capture that frame and back through the big loop of itself so you can see again we're capturing that frame in place then just pull it down slightly to get a bit of a big loop there and then if you're using your pliers make sure you use the same size then place them in there and put them up right next to the previous loop that you made and then pull this loop that will make it now nice and tight around the pliers there we go and then you can see whether I have two loops look nice and even and basically you just want to keep going like this so I'm going to just do it one more time go down through the shape leave yourself a big loop to then get your tail and go back through that loop making sure you catch the frame so you don't get any kinks pull it down so you have a big loop left to put your pliers into before we tighten down that loop and then pull the loop tight around your pliers and there we have the third one again nice and even size and these ones are going to be quite big it's just also so you can see more clearly what I'm doing but it really doesn't matter how large or small you can make it much smaller as well if you want to or even larger completely depends on the look that you want for your stone so keep doing this all the way around the shape till they get up to the other side so I've now gone all the way around the frame hand to reach the other side very top of it and then what I just want to say is you might find that you don't have the perfect spacing to get the site even size loop there all the way around so you might end up having a bit of a gap there but not enough space to make another loop that's not really a big a deal that big of a deal because what you can do is then either push your loops together a little bit and do them all equally and then give yourself that a little bit more space to make another loop or you can then push them up towards the frame to fill in the gap and basically just stretch up the loops a bit so that's a way to kind of make up for that so you don't have to worry about that being perfect as you can adjust these afterwards so now at this point we'll then need to go back to the other side and start making the second go around with our loops so as you can see I just have a little gap here at the top where I have way ended up here then back to web again so I want to just cover that little gap as well but as you can see it's not the same frame as all the way around so I won't be able to fit my flies in here so this one we just have to do freehand and try and make it match the other loops as good as we can so just put it down to the frame the exact same way you've made your other loops and then come back through this loop around the frame then back through it making sure now that we're on the other side of the bail because that's what we want to cross that little gap and then you want to gently pull this into the loop that we want to just take your time do this gently you want this to is sitting right at the beginning of that very first loop and end up having it be as close to the same size as the other ones in the same shape if you can as well so there we go that covers that little gap nicely so now we're back base the other beginning here so now we can start doing is going into the second row of loops and into this backing we that's going to then catch the carrion in place so if you're familiar with how to do an edit Capuchin then what you'll know that up until now it's been the exact same thing but it's from now on that it's going to be a bit different I've also done a tutorial previously on a netted Capuchin so you can have a look at that if you want to it's the same basic principle here because up till now it's been the same thing but the final look you're going to get is just a little bit different because we're going to be doing the next few levels differently we're still going to be making loops but we're just going to be doing it in a different place than otherwise so what we need to do is start looking at our piece here and then we need to start making that next line the next row of all our loops but on the netic Capuchin what I did what you need to do is you go through each of these open loops that were made so the big gaps there for the viking weave we actually don't do that we use the little loops that are connected around the frame themselves so those are the ones we actually want to use now so then I was going onto the other side here you just work with yours however you feel comfortable and then we again go back to the end of a point from the wire head that we're going around to capture the Commission with the other one is still just out of the way all the other wise they're now what can be quite helpful is if you make a little hook on the end of your point formula wire it's just instead of going in and then out too many times we can do this more in one motion so what we want to do is actually it's coming right from the beginning here so right before the very first loop that we made so I'm going to jump over that loop actually over to the second one then we want to go through that second loop so put your way down through and then with that hook that we made we have the hook coming up back up through the first one so I'm going down through the second one and up through the first one and then it's a got little tail here and then also want to go back through the actual big loop that we have so I'm just going to pull it a bit tight and then show you in detail as you can see it's coming down now so I've taken the tailor wire down through the second back up through the first and then gone back through itself again as well so like that and then here again we just have to do this by hand we can't your supplies here so we just pull this gently until we then get another loop on top of that very first one so it's going to be placed the loops on the second row here going all the way around and the following one's are going to be placed right above the ones on the first row so we're not kind of pushing them to the middle of each loop as we did in the netted cabochons so that's what makes this a little bit different and it gives a different look as well so that was the first one and you just pull it to however tight you want these to sit it can play up to you depending what look you want so when I coming out of the first loop so that means I want to jump over my second one and into my third one so we always skip over one first and then with this hook that were made we'll come back up through the previous one so I'll come from the first one go down through the third and back up through the second like that and then put it back through your big loop as well so back through itself and then we can gently pull this again make sure you don't get any kinks as you go just do it gently and I kind of find that are quite helps to hold your fingers on here it stops things moving around too much and it helps get in the nice loop shape as well you pull it down so this next one looks roughly about the same size and distance as the first one we made pull this across so we're now basically every new little loop that will make hooks around the previous one that's attached to the frame so that's what we're doing here go back to the next one and all the way throughout as well rack what I recommend is just keep smoothing out your wire along the way especially right around there where your wires coming down to where you're going to make your loops you want that to be nice and smooth so we don't have any obvious kinks or bends on this wire down here so I'm coming out of the second one jump over one go down through the fourth one and back up through the third one like that till you have a little tail and then pull that back through itself the big loop your wires going to kind of keep curling upon you that's natural just keep on doing and keep smoothing it out as you go so you don't get any kinks and just pull it down hold your finger over it that helps until you get to about the same point as the previous one I also find can help is by just gently pushing the loop down a little bit with your thumb and then pulling up with the wire here if you just want to know do a little bit more then that's now my third one done so you can see these loops are now going exactly on top of the previous ones so you hook it into the small loops instead of through the big loops there so that's how you do this you want to keep going all the way around with this again to the other end and then we already have that loop that crosses the gap on top there and we just use that in the exact same way as well so I've now gone all the way around this round as well until I come back to the beginning there and then we're ready to start the next round what I just want to do is put the cabochon on here and see how it's going and then you can just gently fold this up around the cabochons so how it's going to end up sitting as well and you're also going to get an idea of how much you're going to have to do so that will also depend on how thick your cabochon is how many rounds are getting up having to do now I'm going to start to do a few more than this but I can see that it's coming up the sides so if we look here it's going to be folding up the sides nicely so I might need to do another one so depending we'll see how it goes then I'm back to the beginning here and then all you want to do is basically continue doing the same thing so go back to what you were doing now the only difference is now we have two rows of our loops rather than just the first one that we were just going through so what you want to make sure to do and just be aware of is coming from that just before the very first loop that we originally made now instead of going back down to the bottom row and going through there we want to go through the top row now only so only catch that little loop that connects down to the previous row only caps that one on the top row that we just made still the same principle where we jump from the one will coming out will jump over one so that's over the first one and then go down through the second one but only the top loop that we've just made on the second row there go down through that and then back up through the first loop again only on that second row and then also pull your tail through itself and then pull it gently to make your first loop on this next row again just take your time so it's going to sit and look exactly how you want it to again up a 13-person prefer to try and make the rows even as well so this is going to be about the same size as I did the previous one so something a bit like that and then you just continue in the same way so always go back to your very end of your YF come the one you're coming out of jump over the next one down through the one after that so that's my third one in this case and back up through the previous one and then go through itself and then pull tight gently pull it down nicely so when we're then pulling this it's going to end up looking as much like the previous one as possible so you want to make sure when you do this you don't pull too tight because then that kind of stopped the whole thing we just do it gently and make sure keep the curve for the loops there so keep doing this remembering only to go through the row that you just did so not all the way down only the previous row and go through all the way around to the beginning point again and then what you just want to do basically is keep checking when you've made a row and see how its seat seems to sit on the Commission if you think it's going to be about time to be able to capture it and you're going to have one work row left to do then I'm going to show you what we do then but just keep making your rows until you get to that point so I've now reached back up to the top again there so where we're going to start the next row before I do and then check my cabbage in against it here then make sure it's lying nicely centered on top of my shape and then basically the way you can check is just fold some of your weave up there so many loops to the side to check how far up they come so you can see mine are coming pretty far up so basically I think I'll be able to get away with just doing one more round so I'm going to do is just fold all this up around all the way making sure that from the back it's easy to see in the back that it's still sitting nicely with the shape so it's even all the way around and then I want to start my last row so if you feel that you can hold the caption in there nice and now you can keep it in there otherwise you can just do a few more loops before you then pop it in because you obviously want to make sure you capture it before we go all the way around then I just want to continue doing my loops here in the exact same way so a jump over the first one and go through the next one and then come up through the previous one then remember to pull your tail through and then when we're pulling this down we still want to make sure that it sits nice and it looks right compared to the rest of the loops you can always use your pliers as well to help get your shape in place so it's about still the same size as the ones on the side but what we also need to make sure of now is that will get in this weave or these loops on the site they start coming across a little bit the top along the side there because I thought it's going to capture and hold it in place so that one is just capturing that a little bit more do you wanna make sure to do that all the way around jump over the next one go through the third one back up through the previous one and then pull through itself as well and then pull down to make your loop like I said I find that can quite often help to pushed away a little bit into the loop instead of just pulling because then if you just pull you can risk Paul in some of the previous loops out of shape if you're not careful and again with this one just make sure that when you get to the point where you feel it's about the same size as the print is when you just made the same distance there and also the ones down the side then also that it just comes up and catches the very top outer edge of your stone there so as you can see it's nice if you can keep your loops all the way around is nice and even as possible just gets a nice finished look but it's not too crucial really it all depends on what you want for your piece but it's quite freehand anyway this again make your next one pull your loop down like that you can always open them out a little bit while you're at it it's best to check your lips along the way as you go because then you can just fix the one that you're at now making but you can't really go back and fix previous ones because then you've already moved on and then there you go you just keep going like this all the way around making sure that the last row here just captures and holds that cabochon into place all the way back up to the top again so I've now gone all the way back up to the top there done my last loop and then basically now the caption is in place easy it's not going to go anywhere so it's captured nicely and also making sure that the shape sits nicely on top of the basic shape with a wire that you made so that's all in place now so what we're at now is we have the tail left the rest of the weaving wire that we're using to make the loops now what I just want to do is instead it is going to off there we need to just secure it first so I'm going to just just wet here the top where I ended mine with them a very last loop I'm going to just basically weave it downwards towards the back of the piece and towards the frame there so we can just weave it in between the other loops that we've done and that's going to make it blend in nicely as well so it's not going to become too obvious so just just on yours whatever you feel that it's suitable just weave it down look your way towards the back here and then I just want to get right to the back so I can finish off the wire here securely in place as well so something like this just double-check everything still sits the way you want it to and then we can just weave this out into place so I'm going to do is weave a couple of times around that base wire so wrap it a couple times the basic coiling it there a few times and then that secures it enough so that we can cut off the excess just around in the same place here making sure that your coils are nice and tight next to each other and then once you're happy with that just make sure that it's sitting nicely once we have that then we can then take our cutters I'm using flush cutters here and I'm just going to cut off the excess but just leave about a millimeter tail if that so what I'm going to do with that little bit of wire now sticking out just going to take my chain nose and just make sure to tuck that in I prefer to leave that little tiny bit of tail so we can tuck it in rather than cut it off so the end of the wire is out towards the outside of your piece I'd rather try and tuck it away towards the inside there so it's basically in between the frame and the so that way is not going to catch or scratch on anything at all so there we go now that's finished off and we have the basics setting in place and the cow Asian is in there now so this is where we're at we've done the whole capturing of the caption what we have left to do now is the bail so obviously I've got these two wires coming from the frame I'm going to be using them to make the bill and then the long and I'm a point from the wire that I left right from the beginning this is then where say if you didn't like using this long length of wire and you want to start a separate one so a separate one for the Viking wave here and then a separate want to make the bail you just add in this new wire now to start weaving the bail how you want to do the bail is really up to you I just kind of prefer when it's a simple piece like that to also have the bail quite simple so what I like to do is already started that figure of eight weave I'm just going to basically continue that so first of all I want to make sure that these base wires have the correct angle and shape because instead of having them just come straight up actually do want to come out come out an angle there so they graduate outwards until a certain point and I'm going to graduate in once again it just gives the bail a really nice shape so I'm going to start with where they are now and then go back and forth so down through and then wrap around to one side twice down through skip over to the other side and wrap around that one twice and then skip over to the other side and wrap around that one twice and that's the basic figure of eight weave there it's really good for filling in shapes and making bills like this I'm just going to keep going like this until I reach that point where when I start gradually in once again so it's basically gonna be the middle of the veil what's going to end up being the top go is going to get folded and then I'm going to show you how I do that so I've now reached the midpoint here I'm going to start graduating in once again so what I'm going to do is just take my chain nose pliers and then right here where my weave is ended I'm going to take grab onto my wire there then bend it an angle towards the other one so it's going to go back inwards and the same on the other side so we get this shape where we can see starts graduating in words again that's exactly what we want we can always do to just open up the top to make it easier to weave it's just gently bend these back out nicely with a curve there so you don't have any hash kinks or bends so looks like this and now we have to do start with in this section that graduates inwards and that's always more difficult than weaving we're graduates outwards because your wire when you're weaving naturally wants to slip towards a narrower point which obviously in this section will graduating outwards is easy enough because it wants to slip down make it nice and neat which is exactly what we want but then up here when we start weaving so if I just covered from this side cross to the other side if I'm just just going to start weaving you can see when why I wants to slip up what's there because it's a narrower point so what we need to do to avoid that happening is whenever we weave them switch inside so I'm going from this side that I just wrapped when I'm going over to the side I want to make sure to hold that down so press it down so it stays exactly where we want it to and then we want to do the weave the wrap here on the other side while we've got this press down and do that twice the exact same weave so there we go press it down like this again nice and tight weave and then that's that one done and then we'll switch inside the game we do exactly the same so the side that we just wrapped we hold that down press it down against the other wraps and then just while holding that down we weave the opposite side and then that's basically the best way I find to wrap where it graduates to what a narrower point so again go to the other side hold the one I just wrap down and switch over and just keep going like this so that's just a way to try and get this point as well despite of the bail nice and neat the same as the other side so keep doing this about the same length as the bottom one and then once you get to there we can then start bending the bails it's going to look bit more proper so now that I reached back up to that end there so we have the full length of the bail so another half there on top of that we've made the bends so now what we can do is actually shape the bail because we need these tails are the wire the base wants to come back down to the back so I'm just going to get my bail looking fancy you can use anything you can use a pen or wherever you have crochet hooks are find really good for this as well especially if you have them different sizes you just want to have something to bend this bail around so I'm going to put this behind about the midpoint just a bit below the midpoint and then slowly and gently Bend this around to get a nice shape so you can see there from the front I do find it looks really nice just a bit extra touch with a bail if you make them graduate outwards and then back inwards on the side on the back side that it just gives it a really nice shape so now we have these tails going back towards the backside of the piece and a weaver's ended right down here as well which is perfect so now we just need to do is finish all this off and all I'm really going to do you can do this in however way you want to again make sure that the bottom of these wires is pushed nicely in against the very beginning of the bail so you're not going to have a big gap there it's going to sit nicely like that so to secure this in place with a so you can just make some swirls with these ways you can do anything you want with these tails we don't really need them to secure anything on because so cabochon is nice in place so we don't need to make a backing with them but you could do if you wanted to make some kind of detail feature on the back what I'm going to do first though is just use this point formula wire that we still have left from the bail and I do want to just attach them though so right here at the bottom where I've ended my weave I'm coming across as if I was going to do a wrap on the other side and I want to go up and just do one wrap around that leg and then instead of completing that I want to then actually touch this to the frame as well that we made so I'll get my end and then you just want to basically find a space anywhere now you can go through where the frame is and then come back up because we want to make sure we said this is nice and secure and can hold the whole thing in place so it's a functioning bail pull it up there nice and tight so it's going to sit like that we're going to fasten it this way come back around again the same leg and now I want you switch over to the other side so down through the middle and then come up and just go around the leg on the other side here in the exact same way just to fasten that first and then the same principle on this side I want to just go through the frame really close to the bail so just going to just blend in and pull it tight because with in doing this is good also pulling the bail the bottom of the bail they're really nice and tight towards basically the where the beginning of the bail is like that and then go back and just do another wrapper to along that leg secure it in place and then we can always just go to the other side and do one more focus want to make sure it's nice and secure when we finish off this wire so I'm going to do one more wrap here like I said you can do this however you want to it's a matter of looking at your piece and see what you think fits and looks nice and also it's going to be nice and secure for your piece you just want to press the bell forward a little bit like that so I'm done with my weaving why now because this I feel it's nice and secure enough for what I want so the way I'm going to just get rid of it then is by cutting it off and leaving that little shot end of the wire still same as we did before then I'm going to take my chain nose pliers and just make sure to tuck in that little end because we don't want to stick it out towards the back I'm tucking it in and then just gently rolling my pliers in the same direction that it's going because now in my case it gets tucked in in between these base wires so the end is not going to be safe wearing as a necklace obviously you don't want that enter the catch on any clothes or fabric so they might come on done or anything so that's the end they can also finish it off on the frame it's completely up to you so now we're left these two legs you can really do what you want to with them what I might do is make just some simple swirls to keep the back nice and simple so if I cut off because obviously we have too much here I want to cut them down so I can make some small swirls and then just I do find that's quite helpful cutting them off at the same time here cuz then you make sure that they end up being the exact same size so I'll cut them down then I'm going to just take my bail making pliers again you can use round nose pliers for this whatever you have and then just grab one at a time might use the other one and then make a little loop here so I took one that's pointing outwards make the loop towards that side and all the way until the wire is basically touching itself and then I'm just going to do the same thing on the other side and this is also finish yourself these knives these wise nicely all the way up and there we go so as you can see by cutting off the wires to begin with so the equal length it makes more sure that they're going to end up being the same size loop here and then just make sure that the ends there are nicely tucked away in towards the back and just press it in so it sits right up against the cabbage in there so that's how that looks so it's nice and neat and simple in the back but still if it does flip over it's a nice back side but then that's the front then you've got your bail there as well so that's how you make this cabbage in and you capture it with a Viking weave and then you can make the back over you want just completely up to you so it's pretty simple technique as long as you just get the hang it so really hope they enjoy this tutorial and found it useful but otherwise then thank you very much for watching hello there everyone today I'm going to show you how to capture a cabochon with wire so you can achieve something that looks a bit like this so quite simple look to it and also a quite a simple technique you can get a nice neat finish like this and it's nice and secure in there it's not going to go anywhere so you can then use it for whether you want a necklace or anything like that so if you want to learn how to make this then keep watching so these are the things that I'm going to be using now the wire that I'm using here


  1. Thank you for your amazing tutorials miss 😊 they are all stunning and I can't wait to try it…

  2. Hello. I have a question but first wanted you to know how much I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and how beautiful your creations are.
    Question: I am doing this weave for first time and finding 26 gauge in any kind of silver is very difficult. It is not as malleable as copper. What gauge would you recommend for silver that will bend better than 26g but not break?
    Anyone feel free to chime in.

  3. Your work is stunning and the tutorials are excellent. Thank you for making them and sharing. I love your accent. Can you tell me where you get your wire from?

  4. Hello my name is Manuela and I am one of your followers I love the pieces that you do I congratulate you I live in Panama I also do acsesorios but I have a problem with the alanbre thread that I get here is not as good as the one you use please can you tell me where can I buy the one you use I would appreciate it very much

  5. You are one of the best on here. Your tutorials are easy to follow.I want to make the tree of life pendant. And I would like to know where do you get your Cabochons and wires? Thank you for this tutorial also its beautiful!

  6. I just love everything you have done and will try everything I have learned. Thank you for all your time making these. I hope everyone will love these to.

  7. I tried to make it but I just couldn't get it to work for me. I did use 26g wire as the video said but it was just to hard. Maybe 28g should be used.

  8. You are so talented. I'm just starting to make jewelry & love your tutorials, your my favorite!! Where do you get your beautiful cabochons & large spools of wire?

  9. You have a beautiful feminine voice. I love your accent. Your techniques are very productive, thank you for sharing.

  10. You have been such a great help to me; I thank you so much for being so generous with both your time and knowledge! I can see from the comments I am one of many. The least I can do is express my gratitude.

  11. I really enjoy your tutorials. Your demonstrations are very easy to follow and result in beautiful pieces. Thank you!

  12. Beautiful work and lovely clear instructions. Would it be possible to use this technique on an undrilled square cabochon, just not sure how it would work with corners, I have some dichroic glass cabochons which would look lovely done this way.

  13. Fantastic tutorial. I love finding new ways to make beautiful jewellery and this will be my next project! The ease with which you work with wire is amazing to watch. You are an incredibly talented person. Keep the tutorials coming!

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