Sewing Jeans Part 3, Stitch the Fly Zip


Sewing Authentic Jeans Part 3 Sewing Jeans – Stitch the Fly Zip My Jeans Pattern, Number 948 featured here made up in medium weight, black stretch denim teamed with my Shirt Pattern, Number 540 made
up in the ever popular black and white, extra bold cotton gingham We want to change our foot to a zipper foot and we want the needle positioned on the left
side We are securing the zip in the correct position We don’t need to stitch too close to the zip
pull or teeth A couple of stitches in reverse to secure The important thing is to keep the zip tape
level with the centre front Stitch all the way down to the end That’s secure and it’s going to stay in place Then we do a second run but this time we want
to be pretty close to the teeth The zip pull gets in the way so we start our
stitching with the zip open half way When we get close to the zip we stop with the needle down, raise the foot and slide the zip pull back up past the needle Then we can continue to the end Folding the zip out, we can see that’s nicely
positioned I like to do one more run A basting stitch really but it won’t show
so you don’t have to remove it later I’m using the longest stitch Right let’s see what we have done so far We have our fronts to the left we’ve stitched the zip in and the right front extension is folded back
on itself Now we turn the garment over and all the pieces
are in the opposite direction The seam allowance is out of the way and we
just have the left extension as a single layer The zip naturally falls in the correct position
for sewing Again we are going to stitch two rows Let the zip settle in position We are going to secure the tape as before and then do the row closer to the teeth So we are going to do these two rows of stitching We now have the needle to the right You notice I haven’t pinned this time The zip sits nicely in position by itself And the second row It really doesn’t matter that you can’t get
too close at the top When it is finished you will see why Now for some topstitching Here are the items we will need Topstitching thread or sometimes called Bold or Strong Thread This is 100% cotton or polyester is fine My machine was supplied with a jeans foot which works well for topstitching but is not essential It is good in general for straight stitching I have a regular thread in the bobbin I’m using topstitching needles, the eyes are longer Needles described as for use with denim are
also good A stitch compensator is really worth using
when you are stitching through several layers You can also use spare fabric folded several
times Also, as I am always reminding you, try out
your stitches on spare fabric You will need to adjust your tension for this
topstitching The top thread has to be tightened considerably
so get it right with a few dummy runs So here we are ready to do our topstitching
on the fly zip The zip is on the inside and we want to avoid
hitting it with our needle The tailor tack is about level with the bottom
of the zip so we want the curve of our stitching to come just below I shall have my topstitching 1¼” from the
centre front This time I shall do a single row So measure and chalk in the line, curving
round nicely at the bottom My stitching will end at the centre front
about ¼” below the tailors tack If we look at my diagram you can see exactly
where the topstitching should go It also shows the position of a second row
if you would like to try that So a final check that the stitch is as good as it can be I’m using the stitch compensation tool because the bulk of the zip pull on the left, sticks up and I want the foot to stay level Once you are past the bulk you can remove
it Take your time and don’t be afraid to undo
stitching if it’s not going right Be positive when going round bends Hold down the fabric firmly with both hands and just ease it in the direction of the chalk guide line Stop at the centre front To secure either take a few stitches in reverse or for the neat look take the threads through, to knot or stitch
in out of sight Right, we have a nice line here I’m just going to pull the stitches to the
inside I should follow the crude approach as with
most bought jeans but I always end up doing it the neat way! We can take out these pins Next we are going to attach the zip guard We fold the wrong sides together I’m just going to finish one end with Zigzag or overlock The guard is going to be centred over the
zip and stitched down this side So the lower edge is finished Now we want to place this centrally over the
zip This edge is going to be trimmed away So we want to pin and stitch along here We are just pinning through the zip guard
and the extension keeping free from the trouser front Keeping the fronts out of the way, machine
this seam That’s done Now this edge needs to be finished You can either trim it and zigzag or overlock cutting away the surplus Coming Next in Part 4 We will be topstitching and finishing the
Fly Zip Opening If you would like to be kept up do date with
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5 comments

  1. Sewing, How to Make Jeans Part 3 is now uploaded.  I do hope you are finding this useful.  I'm uploading new episodes as quickly as I can!

    Please check out my PDF Sewing Pattern Format – It's the Best!

  2. Thank you so much for this wonderful tutorial on sewing jeans. I made a pair of jeans for myself about 35 years ago that came out perfectly EXCEPT I chose the wrong type of fabric (a polished cotton) that has no give at all.
    The first time I wore them, I bent over and the fabric split down the center of the left butt cheek, not on a seam. I was upset but it was a learning experience. Haha
    I look forward to following your method for sewing jeans for my daughter and granddaughter.
    Your videos are fantastic!

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